A Wonderful Few Days In Split CroatiaSplit By Car When you arrive in Split on a Cruise Ship as so many visitors do, it is very easy to think that the city is all contained within the extensive old city walls. This is what I thought when I visited in the summer. However this time we drove from the town of Zadar and entered what is a massive quite modern city with suburbs that stretch from the sea to the foot of the mountains. It took a good 40 minutes to cross the urban city to the old town where we were staying. Our accommodation was just five minutes from the heart of the bars and restaurants tucked into the old lanes. Parking could have been a headache — the nearest on-street spaces were €24 a day — but a quick chat with the local bar owner solved everything. He had what might be the only ten free parking spots in the city, right outside his bar. They shuffled a few cars around and we squeezed in. Four days of free parking, just 30 metres from the flat — happy days.
It seems to me that the apartments, rooms, and hotels in Split are all of real quality. On Booking.com, anything above 8.5 is usually considered exceptional, but in Split, nearly every listing was over 9 — and genuinely terrific value. Our place was no exception: a small basement room in a centuries-old stone house on one of the main cobbled streets. It was clean, beautifully maintained, and within a few steps I was in a charming restaurant-pub.
Split: Alive with Stone and SeaI’ll be honest — I absolutely love Split. I spent most of my time simply walking, hour after hour, through its stunning alleys and lanes. They’re home to curious little shops, tucked-away bars, and some of the most architecturally striking restaurants I’ve ever seen. There’s a quiet magic in the way the light hits the stone walls and pavements — whether it’s night or day — and every turn seems to reveal another hidden courtyard or vine-draped archway. It feels ancient, yet very much alive. The old town is a labyrinth of polished stone streets, worn smooth by centuries of footsteps on soft limestone. Sometimes they glisten as if wet — and if it rains, they really are slippery! But brilliant for photographs.
Diocletian’s Palace forms the heart of it all — a massive Roman house built by a retired emperor. Parts of it survive as the foundations for everything here today. It’s not just a monument, but a living, modern attraction. Cafés spill out into ancient courtyards beside the towering church, and in the evenings, musicians play under Roman arches while tourists and locals drink and listen. It’s a place where history isn’t just preserved — it’s lived in. Honestly, the hairs on the back of my neck stood up when we arrived one evening to the sound of a young band playing Ed Sheeran.
Marina Walking and Charter PlansOn our second afternoon, we walked around the marina in the hot sun. Hundreds of yachts were preparing for sea. At first, we thought it was some kind of regatta, but after a few enquiries, we realised it was simply a busy day for charters. It got me thinking — this is something for the future: hire a yacht with friends, go solo, or better still, join a group and make new ones. Every budget is catered for, from small six-berth basics to state-of-the-art luxury catamarans. You can even ditch the sails and go for a superyacht like a Sunseeker. With so many islands and crystal-clear waters, it seems like a fantastic way to have an adventure — especially for a first-timer. I’ll definitely be looking into it for next year. Cliffside SurpriseOn our way back from the harbour-side marina, we chose to climb some steep steps toward what looked like a bar perched on the cliffs. When we reached the last step, we immediately realised we were out of our price range! White-clothed tables, suited waiters, and views to die for. “If we walk through the restaurant and out the other side, we won’t have to climb the hill again,” I suggested. As we reached the exit, I grabbed a menu for a quick look — and realised almost immediately we shouldn’t be leaving. This place was the best value in Split! What followed was a beautiful hour of wonderful food, attentive service, and unforgettable views. The place was called Skippers, and I couldn’t recommend it more.
Filling In the WeekTwo of our days were taken up by a trip to Brač, a nearby island — but that’s a separate story. We ate and drank at plenty of places, and not once were we left even slightly disappointed. Split is a friendly, beautiful town that blends tourism with local life effortlessly. It feels like the city has reinvested the money from tourism wisely: the buildings are renovated, the accommodation is modern and well maintained, and the town has managed to stay genuinely welcoming.
I must add — late one evening, I took my laptop out to a bar and accidentally left it on the seat outside. I went back the next day, and to my surprise, they handed it straight back. The lady said, “Don’t be surprised — any place in Split would have handed it in, I’m sure.” And I think I believe her. |
