Supetar, Croatia: A Really Magical Place

There’s a ferry from Split to Supetar on the island of Brač. It looks a bit old and tired, but it does a fantastic job crossing the water in just under an hour—and as a foot passenger, all for just €7!

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Almost immediately after disembarking, we found ourselves at the charming waterfront harbour. Its flat limestone promenade is lined with neatly spaced palm trees, offering just a touch of shade to the cafés and restaurants set back from the water’s edge. Their uniform canopies create the perfect backdrop to the cream-coloured stone buildings of the old town. The red-roofed houses, lofts, and central church look freshly restored. “This is a place that takes care of itself,” I thought. The picture-perfect harbour is filled with colourful small boats and the occasional visiting yacht or cruiser.

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As we strolled along the harbour’s edge, we kept stopping to peer into the crystal-clear water. I don’t think I’ve ever been anywhere with such visibility—you can see ropes and anchors resting on the seabed, maybe 12 meters down, along with shoals of shimmering fish.

Further along the promenade, we passed souvenir huts and boutique shops. Here we found a brilliant swimming spot, with metal steps built into the sea wall. The swim itself was magical—bobbing in the water with a backdrop of mainland mountains and vivid green trees lining the island’s shore. I regretted not bringing swim goggles; the colourful fish were everywhere.

We swam, read our books, and soaked in the view until it was time to chase the sunset. As the sun dipped lower, we spotted a bar at the end of the harbour that would catch the last golden rays. We got lucky—the bar was full, but just as we arrived, two people vacated the best seats. Honestly, it beats working! Sitting with a local beer, good company, and a smiling barmaid as the sun goes down felt like heaven. In that moment, this was it.

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Before we knew it, night had fallen, and we wandered through the quiet side streets and alleys, maybe in search of another drink or a meal. Some of the restaurants were truly magical, with tables tucked into courtyards under ancient olive trees—even spilling onto steps and pavements. The soft lighting against pale stone walls created a warm, ambient glow, and the air was rich with the scent of seafood and garlic. Not being great at choosing, we ended up in a bar that served fifty different beers and something called “Messy Chips.” Gosh, we’re posh!

Later, we shared a wood-fired pizza at a harbour-front spot and lamented having to leave the island. We were back onboard by 9:45 and in Split just before eleven.

Sometimes you want to use fancy words to describe a beautiful place, but Supetar makes you feel something deeper. I felt warm inside as I walked its clean alleys and waterfronts, knowing that once again on my travels, I’d found somewhere truly special.

Useful Notes

🛳 Ferry Info: Departs from Pier 23 in Split via Jadrolinija Lines. Ticket kiosks are open day and night. Return tickets are valid for any sailing back to Split.

🏊 What to Bring: A towel and swim goggles—don’t miss out!

🍴 Food Tip: We returned the next day and did it all again, this time dining at a little open beach café called June. It wasn’t fancy, but the staff were amazing and funny—and boy, the food was good! Two meat skewers, chips, and a beer rivalled any top restaurant.

PHOTO GALLERY:

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